CAGE SIZE: Boa constrictors require a secure well-ventilated cage. A glass aquarium with a secure ventilated top (screen wire or perforated metal) can be satisfactory to display your beautiful snakes. Plastic storage boxes, with numerous perforations for ventilation, can also be satisfactory. We raise our young boas to breeding size in 3' x 2' wooden cages with glass fronts. We raise the larger snakes in 4' x 3' wooden cages.
Young adult boas would be given around a 2' x 3' area if possible, but can be transferred straight to their adult-size cage if wanted.
SUBSTRATE: Boas can be raised on a substrate of aspen bedding material or carpet. We use carpet as it is the least expensive and is easy to clean. Just dispose of the stools and throw in a washing machine and it is ready to go again. I do not recommend sand, gravel, or any type of soil as it might encourage mites. Our snakes are well maintained on the carpet.
Boas enjoy climbing and resting on branches or fixed dowels. Be sure to affix them permanently so as not to have an accident of branches falling on them and causing injury. However, this is not a must if it is not possible. They can be perfectly fine just hanging out on the floor of the cage. If you want to put plants in the cage, I recommend plastic as some live plants may irritate them.
WATER: Clean water should be available in a glass of ceramic water bowl or dish at all times. We supply the young boas water in a shallow glass dish, with water being no more than ½" deep. Older snakes are provided water in a glass pie dish; it works great as they don't dump it over, but still have plenty of water for drinking.
Boas do not need a large water bowl to get in if they are secure and healthy in their environment--only if they are stressed or insecure in their cages (they are "hiding" in their water bowl), or if they are plagued by an infestation of snake mites. You will probably want to research about snake mites as they can cause a health problem. Our snakes however do not have them.
FEEDING REQUIREMENTS: In captivity, young boas readily start out eating small newborn pink mice and slowly graduate up to small white fuzzy mice; most readily accept freshly-killed prey offered to them on forceps. That is typically how we feed boas all their lives. After awhile, they can be taught to take frozen mice, as that is more easily and cheaply available. Large boas readily feed on rats, hamsters, gerbils, guinea pigs, rabbits, chickens, or ducks. We find rats more easily and cheaply available. An appropriate-sized meal is one that makes just a slight lump inside the snake. The boas mouths are able to handle a meal as big as the girth of the snake. Snakes that are distended from too-large meals should not be handled.
We feed the young boas every 4-5 days. After feeding, do not handle them for two days, if you can avoid it. We never put a live prey in with our snakes, as you take a chance of the snake being bitten. If you use live prey, always knock them out first.
TEMPERATURE OF CAGE: We try to maintain a temperature of around 80 degrees in the cage. We have found the easiest and safest way is the heat mat or tape you can purchase to put under the floor. Please research this carefully before doing it.
SHEDDING: Boas generally have few problems shedding their skin. When a snake incompletely sheds, and a portion of the skin is left adhered to the snake, the snake should be soaked in shallow water for several hours, after which the skin typically comes off very easily.
Small patches of skin that remain adhered to the snake are not expected to have any harmful effect and it is at the option of the keeper to arrange for the removal. It's probably best to see that skin is not left on the face and eyes. Typically, "stuck" pieces of shed will come off with the next shed. Incomplete sheds and adhered sheds are an indicator that the ambient humidity in the cage is too low and the careful keeper will "tweak" the system to increase the humidity.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR NEWBORNS: When it comes time to get them to feed, newborn boas generally present their keepers with few problems. Youngsters usually shed at 7-10 days of age. We typically wait 2-3 weeks before we feed them, allowing them time to utilize the yolk in their bodies that they are born with. We then offer them live pinky mice for their first few meals, simply placing the prey in the cages and letting the babies follow their instincts.
GENERAL COMMENTS: Most common boas are very docile and reluctant to bite. Occasional babies can be snappy, but they are small and the bites are harmless. But when calmly and consistently handled, the youngsters grow to be very docile and trusting adults. A lot of biting can be avoided if the babies are not picked up with the hand, but instead are lifted with a small hook (or bent piece of coat-hangar wire) and set in the hand.
Boas are among the best snakes to keep in captivity. They are beautiful and extraordinarily hardy creatures with longevity records in excess of 40 years.
ENJOY!!
